How to Take Great Fireworks Photos

by Angie Sharp LRPS

Firework displays can be quite spectacular and yield some stunning results when captured on camera… and despite what you might think, it’s not that difficult if you follow a few simple guidelines! I’d recommend going to a large organised display where there are likely to be plenty of magnificent fireworks – preferably near water so you can include reflections for an added dimension. If possible try to obtain information from the organisers in advance so you can figure out exactly where the fireworks will be set off, roughly where in the sky they will be, and what are likely to be the best vantage points.

Equipment

The items I would recommend you load up your gadget bag with are as follows:-

• A sturdy tripod - to keep the camera steady during the long exposure times needed
• Standard zoom lens
• Remote release – to avoid camera movement as you release the shutter
• Spirit level to slot into the hot-shoe on top of the camera (these can be found in most photographic stores for around £10)
• Small torch - useful when fumbling around in the dark
• Piece of black card (approx A5 size)
• Camera batteries
• Film or storage card
• …oh and don’t forget the camera!

Setting Up

Arrive early to allow yourself time to find a suitable spot where your view will not be obstructed and you are not likely to be bashed by other specators milling around. Set up your tripod positioning the legs where they will be least obtrusive – preferably against a low fence or wall if one is available, so people are not likely to walk in front of you or accidentally kick the tripod legs.

Insert the spirit level into the hot-shoe and attach the remote release to the camera. Point the lens roughly in the direction where you expect the display to be (you will have to use a certain amount of anticipation here).

Technical

Set the ISO to 100 or the slowest speed available on your particular camera model (or use a film of speed 100 or 200 ISO). Choose a mid-range aperture of around f8 to f11 (any wider and you are likely to get burnt out areas, whilst smaller apertures could result in the streaks of light not being bright enough), and select “B” or “bulb” mode. Consult your camera’s instruction manual if you are not sure how to set this. The bulb setting means that the shutter will stay open for as long as you hold your finger on the button. If your camera or lens has a built in image stabiliser make sure this is turned off (you should always keep the stabiliser off when using a tripod). Turn the mirror lock-up on if you know how to – this will help prevent any slight movement registering on the image as the mirror flips up at the start of the exposure. But don’t fret too much over this because any such movement will be relatively short as a proportion of the overall exposure and therefore unlikely to have any noticeable effect. Make sure your camera’s flash is turned off.

Compose

Once the firework display starts you will be able to make the final adjustments to your composition. Vertical shots tend to work best since the fireworks will be rising high up into the air. Look through the viewfinder and zoom the lens in or out to include the top of the highest fireworks. If you are shooting over water position the horizon about one third of the way up the frame so you can include some reflections in the foreground. Use a torch for a final check that the camera is level (it will probably be too dark to see the spirit level without a torch!). As an alternative, if you have a long telephoto or zoom lens, try zooming in for some really abstract close-ups (or crop your images later).

Shoot

Press the shutter button on the remote release and hold it with your finger for a few seconds before releasing your finger to close the shutter again. The length of exposure required will depend on the brightness of the fireworks and the number of bursts you choose to capture in each frame.

Whilst single shots generally tend to work best you may want to try choosing the best bursts to capture in a single frame. Hold a piece of black card just in front of the lens (but not touching it). Release the shutter and hold it open as before, but this time take the card away from and replace in front of the lens timing your movements to capture the best fireworks all together (but don’t overdo it or you will end up with a big bright overexposed blob if your overall exposure time is too long). When you are finished release your finger from the shutter release button. Check the viewfinder regularly – the fireworks will be at different heights and may move around if it is windy or if they are set off from a boat out at sea.

Experiment

Fireworks are unpredictable – some are brighter than others, some will have longer bursts, some will rise higher into the sky. Experiment with different settings on your camera – vary the aperture slightly and the duration of the exposure. If you are shooting on a digital camera have an occasional preview of the images you have captured so far to check everything looks ok. You can always make minor adjustments to the aperture and exposure time to vary the effect and perfect your technique… but don’t spend so long looking at the LCD screen that you miss the best of the action!

Angie Sharp.